{"id":11299,"date":"2025-07-09T15:50:32","date_gmt":"2025-07-09T07:50:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gqhongkong.com\/?p=11299"},"modified":"2025-09-12T12:59:04","modified_gmt":"2025-09-12T04:59:04","slug":"everything-you-need-to-know-about-michael-riders-new-celine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gqhongkong.com\/en\/style-en\/everything-you-need-to-know-about-michael-riders-new-celine","title":{"rendered":"Everything you need to know about Michael Rider\u2019s New Celine"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

If Michael Rider was intimidated to follow up Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane at Celine, he didn\u2019t show it in the lead-up to his Sunday afternoon debut. The American designer was relaxed when I spoke to him at Jonathan Anderson\u2019s Dior show last week; on Sunday, as Anderson, Raf Simons, Dev Hynes, Alanis Morissette, and Kristin Wiig found their seats at Celine\u2019s rue Vivienne offices, Rider\u2019s close friend, the actor Dan Levy, told me that his buddy has been nothing but calm. \u201cI’ve been seeing him over the past couple nights, and when you’re ready to step into something like this, you’re ready,\u201d Levy said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Levy was right. Rider formally introduced his Celine\u2014and himself\u2014with preppy confidence. And a lot of leggings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Rider didn\u2019t shy away from Slimane\u2019s skinny signature, but took it to his own extreme with jogging tights, bony equestrian trousers, and even a pair of stretchy white jeggings. Tight as the pants were, the ensembles actually felt totally loosened up from Slimane\u2019s severe precision. Bright, cheerful primary colors cut through the overcast skies, as did the echoes of Philo\u2019s C\u00e9line (as it was styled at the time), where Rider spent nine years working for the queen of intelligent power dressing. We saw this in notably long overcoats with padded shoulders that caressed gently around the torso and Philo\u2019s iconic Luggage bag, which Rider elongated and anthropomorphized with a smiley side zipper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Image courtesy of Celine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Backstage, Rider pointed to the leggings as an example of how he was nimbly building on a foundation rather than tearing down the house that Philo and Slimane (and another American, Michael Kors!) built. The snug pants, he said, \u201chave been around here at different points of time during the history of the company for women, for men.\u201d As menswear moves back to tight fits the painted-on look felt strangely compelling, though Rider also provided a more practical alternative, with trousers that were voluminous and rippling with pleats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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There was a lot to like for both Hedi Boys and Philofiles. But as the models walked, sure-footed in their soft leather boat shoes through the rainy courtyard of Celine\u2019s 2nd arrondissement headquarters, my mind kept turning to Ralph Lauren, where Rider served as women\u2019s creative director from 2018 until last year. (You can spot Rider\u2019s curly-haired, energetic presence orbiting the boss in the documentary Very Ralph back before he stepped out from behind the scenes.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ralph famously designs according to American archetypes\u2014The Chairman of the Board, The Cowboy\u2014which Rider comfortably adapted to his own cast of prepsters. Prep was all over the runways this season, but Rider got the last word. There was a schoolboy theme with a bold red blazer and nifty washed jeans tacked at the ankle, and a couple of great knit rugby shirts elongated to dress-length. Under Slimane, Celine became practically synonymous with ultra-luxe leather moto jackets, which Rider redesigned with big rounded shoulders and a new sense of ease. His boardroom guy looked every bit a modern dandy with a hair ribbon around his head and white ballet flats on his feet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps not coincidentally, Rider described his approach to me using the foundational language of prep-dom. He had been thinking, he said, about \u201call the values of the House of Celine that kind of overlap with my values, which are quality, timelessness\u2014which is an overused, but I think elusive thing to find\u2014and style. Like, an attitude. Which is kind of missing sometimes to me in fashion these days.\u201d You could quibble with the actual styling, which leaned a bit eccentric, but pick look 32 apart and you\u2019ve got a heavy-duty sweatshirt with blousy arms, a chic white polo, a buttery moto jacket, and some cool cropped pants, all of which look great together or as the foundational wardrobe basics Philo and Hedi (and Ralph) are so good at.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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But the strongest looks had the most Rider in them. Not that it was particularly easy to tell\u2014when Rider succeeded Slimane last October he was widely unknown, and he hasn\u2019t seemed eager to change that perception in the months since. He isn\u2019t on social media, keeps a small circle, and didn\u2019t do any previews or advance press before the show. But since some of his friends are famous\u2014looking at you, Dan!\u2014Rider has a faint but stylish digital trail. (Or at least he did\u2014it\u2019s been basically obliterated by the deluge of imagery from Sunday.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What I could find paints a picture of Rider as a sort of beachy American nomad, with Haider Ackermann\u2019s loucheness and a closet full of Polo. He has a penchant for drapey military parkas (look 45), those tacked jeans (look 21), and soft, slipper-like shoes (throughout). Backstage, he told me he relished the chance to design men\u2019s clothes for the first time since cutting his teeth at Nicolas Ghesquiere\u2019s Balenciaga: \u201cI love designing menswear, as much as I love women’s wear.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Move aside, Slimaniacs. Maybe Rider\u2019s own fashion cult isn\u2019t too far behind. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Images courtesy of Celine
First published on gq.com<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Jeggings and a healthy dose of preppiness won the day at the American designer\u2019s strong debut. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":10719,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[248],"tags":[696,697],"authors":[],"class_list":["post-11299","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-style-en","tag-celine-2","tag-michael-rider"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEverything you need to know about Michael Rider\u2019s New Celine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jeggings and a healthy dose of preppiness won the day at Michael Rider's strong debut at Celine\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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