As the house marks its 170th anniversary this year, Daniel Lee resists the temptation to lean heavily into archival nostalgia. Instead, he continues to explore and define the idea of “Britishness” that has shaped his tenure at Burberry.

So what does “Britishness” mean this season for Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer? For Lee, it comes down to three things about winter in London: nightlife, coats, and bad weather.
British winters are defined by darkness and relentless rain. Entering 2026, parts of the UK even experienced an unbroken stretch of 45 days of grey, wet weather. This unpredictability has long been inseparable from London life. As Lee puts it, “I wanted to bring back a very London way of going out.”

The focus this season is not London as a destination, but the character and energy that emerge after nightfall. Lee recalls the hazy, rain-slicked memories of late nights in the city: streetlights glowing against wet black asphalt, taxis gliding along reflective roads, the faint sound of music leaking from a phone speaker on a night bus. These abstract urban images form the starting point of the collection. “We’re all walking the same streets, lit by the same lamps, feeling that pulse the city gives you at night,” he reflects.

For the first time, the show was staged at the historic Old Billingsgate, transformed into a fully immersive London nightscape. A scaffold-wrapped recreation of Tower Bridge stood inside, while resin puddles across the floor simulated rain-soaked streets illuminated by streetlights. A monument once symbolic of grandeur was reimagined as part of everyday life, guiding guests through the most authentic version of a London rainstorm. After all, few things are more British than bad weather.







Guests included Burberry ambassador Bright Vachirawit, Stray Kids’ Seungmin, Chen Kun, Yoona Lim, Jason Statham, and Hikaru Utada, alongside a strong British contingent: Kate Moss and Lila Moss, Iris Law, Barry Keoghan, Tom Blyth, Alexa Chung, as well as recent Grammy Best New Artist winner Olivia Dean and PinkPantheress. Romeo Beckham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley also appeared on the runway, reinforcing the local spirit of the show.


London’s nightlife is famously eclectic, and this season’s design ethos revolves around creating wardrobes that move seamlessly from day to night. The collection balances practicality, street sensibility, and sensuality—perfect for navigating winter rain after dark. As Lee describes it, “Everyone looks like they’re on their way somewhere.” Whether heading to a gala, dinner, club, or a late-night rendezvous, these clothes are built for movement.


There is a certain urban romance in braving the rain wrapped in a coat, and Fall/Winter 2026 becomes a true celebration of outerwear. Yet the focus extends beyond the classic trench. Youthful deconstruction defines the season: trench coats and tailored overcoats are “sensually reimagined” in leather, or reshaped in womenswear with ruffled collars and cinched waists for a more fitted, provocative silhouette—hinting at London’s slightly rebellious nocturnal energy. The house’s iconic Nova Check is enlarged and given a glossy finish across wool, leather, and silk, while polished lambskin glistens with an iridescent sheen reminiscent of petrol reflecting on wet pavement.


Lee also infuses functional pieces—bomber jackets, hoodies, raincoats—with an evening attitude. Rendered in dark tones such as black, navy, and burgundy, they carry a moody after-hours atmosphere while remaining wearable around the clock.







Although the anniversary is not overtly celebrated, subtle nods to heritage appear. One trench coat features an embossed vintage map discovered in the Burberry archives—depicting the very district where the show took place. Elsewhere, the brand revisits the classic British idiom “raining cats and dogs,” reimagined in animated form across select pieces, reinforcing Burberry’s bond with its native climate and signature sense of humour. Wrapped in a great coat, even the worst weather feels strangely comforting.

Ultimately, the collection reads like a love letter to Britain’s bad weather. From puddled floors reflecting streetlights to leather coats and hoodies built for rain-drenched nights, Daniel Lee reframes gloom not as a burden but as a symbol of London resilience and vitality. Even in the rain, the city pulses with life.
Photo courtesy of Burberry and Getty Images
