Fall/Winter 2025: The Napoleon Jacket is Making a Comeback
The Napoleon jacket is the next fashion item set for a major comeback.
Designers love revisiting garments from the past to unearth new inspiration. The idea that trends return every 20 years has become familiar (Think: Y2K in recent years). Search for “Napoleon jacket” on social media and you’ll see countless young people showing off their vintage, military-inspired looks.
This new generation has almost no direct connection to that period of history, which inevitably raises the question: why has it resurfaced right now, and why has it captured their attention?
Why is the Napoleon Jacket Making a Comeback?
It is not surprising that a historic statement piece like the Napoleon Jacket is making a return, as 19th-century Napoleonic style has long been a recurring reference in fashion. In the 1980s and 1990s, legendary designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano all drew inspiration from the aesthetics of the Napoleonic era. In the early 2000s, Hedi Slimane and Christophe Decarnin transformed the Napoleon Jacket into a must-have fashion item, establishing it as a key symbol of the indie sleaze style. After being worn by icons such as Michael Jackson, The Beatles, Mick Jagger and Jimi Hendrix, it was officially propelled from the fashion world into mainstream culture.
But Why Now?
Looking back at the first half of this year, social media had already sparked a wave of the so-called “modern-day Hedi Boys” trend. Gen Z has been embracing variations of Hedi Slimane’s slim menswear archetype from 20 years ago, with the Napoleon Jacket being one of its key elements. Even though this generation never actually lived through that era, what they are drawn to is the style and identity represented by the design. For them, this aesthetic feels especially “fresh”, while also aligning with Gen Z’s strong desire for self-expression.
On a deeper level, against a backdrop of global economic, political, and social instability, life has to some extent come to feel like a “battle”. The revival of the Napoleon Jacket in 2025 is therefore not merely a simple fascination with aesthetics; it reflects a collective need, in uncertain times, for clothing to provide a sense of control.
The Napoleon Jacket on the Runway
This summer, the jacket first appeared in Jonathan Anderson’s debut menswear collection for Dior, where he deconstructed historical aristocratic dress through a modern approach to create a relaxed and free-spirited masculine image, including ornate military jackets. As for Balmain, the brand that turned the Napoleon jacket into one of its defining signatures, Olivier Rousteing dedicated the entire Fall 2025 menswear collection to the Napoleon style, with jackets adorned with braiding, cords, and fringes running throughout the collection.
The Napoleon jacket also took center stage on the runways of Ann Demeulemeester and McQueen, becoming the “protagonist” of the looks. Versions in black, red, white, and blue ran throughout the collections, shifting away from the dark palettes of recent seasons while still retaining a poetic punk sensibility. Although Seán McGirr’s McQueen Spring/Summer 2026 collection did not feature menswear looks, the classic piece was likewise woven into various outfits, such as wearing a Napoleon jacket bare against the skin with low-rise jeans, injecting a sense of unruly rebellion into the styling.
On the other hand, Napoleon-era fashion elements are making a strong yet refreshed comeback in 2025, with designers reinterpreting them through contemporary lenses. Nigo, in Kenzo’s latest Spring/Summer 2026 collection, transformed the Napoleon jacket into a streetwear piece, paying homage to the iconic cover of The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. Meanwhile, Pharrell Williams reimagined the ornate military uniform in denim in the latest winter collection he designed for Louis Vuitton.
There are also more subtle applications. At first glance, you might not immediately associate them with the Napoleon jacket. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus introduced military jackets that replace braided trims with double metal clasps, while Craig Green deconstructed the Napoleon jacket’s braiding into detachable straps, reinterpreting the classic piece in shirting fabrics and giving it a distinctly contemporary new look.
